2011年9月23日星期五

Front Row - Writing approximately Russian emigres in Paris and their contribution apt an epoch of gl

Now on Sunday

Last year Tiffany & Company bought back its Fifth Avenue and 57th Street flagship from a Japanese real possession concern that had been leasing it the building. Yesterday, at an yearly luncheon, Tiffany's premier, Michael Kowalski, affirmed that the cache had earned near to $200 million during the previous year.

To change his destiny, Mr. Vassiliev marital a Frenchwoman and migrated to Paris in 1982. ''It wasn't purely a matrimony of arrangement,'' he protested. ''We had some fun.''

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Which manner the company should have superfluity of money for its renovation plans, the first ever for the Fifth Avenue site, also announced yesterday. The renovations will add 25 percent more retail space. Fine jewelry and appointment rings will move from the tourist-friendly first floor to the second, and the fourth floor, immediately office space, will trait extra housewares. The fifth floor will be turned into exhibition space.

Self-Help

''I was the chief Russian star of children's TV,'' Alexandre Vassiliev exclaimed in his publisher's bureau at birth, wearing not an but two scarves and a cameo ring. ''They phone me the Russian Shirley Temple. Once, I was dressed as an agitate timer.'' Mr. Vassiliev, a countryman of Moscow, came to his second profession as a figure in the earth of European fashion -- educating fashion history at the Royal College of Art in London and designing costumes for emphatic opera and ballet companies in Italy and Germany -- the way few others have. He was attempting to shirk serving in the naval during the Soviet Union's invasion of Afghanistan 21 years ago.

Ms. Scott, a former model, has been assembling wardrobes for celebrities for four years, and she designed the costumes for the 1996 film ''Diabolique,'' but she has been designing jeans and dresses for herself for decades. ''It could be that I'm this highly high human, and when you're 6 feet 2 inches when you're 12, you study to make your own dress pretty rapid.''

When the Russians Took Paris

Not too long ago, L'Wren Scott, a Hollywood stylist, broke her shoulder in a style acceptable her career and its special demands. ''To be honest,'' Ms. Scott said during a visit to New York last week, ''I fell off my Manolo Blahniks.''

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Mr. Vassiliev also combed through each issue of Vogue and Harper's Bazaar from 1917 to 1945. The outcome is a 479-page paperback, ''Beauty in Exile'' (Harry N. Abrams, $60).

He was presently introduced to a membrane director and began obtaining costume work. One evening when he was heeding the theatre, he accidentally sat down in the seat belonging apt an older matron, who would guide him apt the next line aboard his resume. She was too Russian merely described herself as ''imperial from St. Petersburg,'' Mr. Vassiliev said.

''In the antique days you had to have glamour and glitter,'' Mr. Vassiliev scrutinized. ''I adore fashion of today, but it's not very glamorous. Unisex has had a victory.''

Photo: The photographer George Hoyningen-Huene in a portrait at Cecil Beaton. (From ''Beauty in Exile.'')

More meaningful maybe was the company's bulletin that starting in January, it ambition end a institution and open its doors on Sunday. (Bergdorf Goodman recently did the same.)

The woman had fled the Russian Revolution and worked as annuals in Paris as a tailor. They became friends, and she suggested he might jot a book approximately her surround, spirited by the time when many Russian outlaws influenced Western fashion, including the illustrator Erte (whose Russian label was Roman Tyrtov), the photographer George Hoyningen-Huene and his sister, Baroness Hoyningen-Huene, who founded the Parisian couture house of Yteb in the 1920's.

Relieved of her actors, Ms. Scott arrived at the Hudson Hotel with a vintage Hermes Birkin bag, a green Hermes cashmere dart with which to dress her minimalist hostel bed and 25 outfits she designed, most made from ancient linens drawn from an archive she has been assembling for 15 years. A striped feather-trimmed coat, case in point, was slit from 61-year-old silk, and a camisole was overlaid with 1910 spider lace. By the end of the week,The Exclusive Cartier Sunglasses, Ms. Scott had sold 18 of the 25 designs to private consumers at amounts from $900 to $3,800. She plans to start distinct accumulation later Thanksgiving.

Any fall Ms. Scott might take would be steep: she amounts 6 feet 3 inches in her stocking feet.

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